Archive for the ‘How to hatch killfish eggs?’ Category

Killifish hatching

Peat moss use for incubate killifish eggs. The incubation time varies with different species but it should be quite safe to assume that eggs of the Nothobranchius will hatch in 6 to 8 weeks when kept at 29 degrees Centigrade. The peat should always be stored in a dark and cool place. A styrofoam box is best because it will keep the temperature constant. But it’s also okay to keep the eggs inside a bedroom drawer. Eyed-up eggs are a sure indication that the eggs are fully developed. When you are ready to hatch the killifish eggs, do not separate them from the peat when you wet killfish eggs. For reasons which are not fully understood, the killifish eggs won’t hatch without the peat.To wet the peat, fill up a plastic tray (20 cm X 20 cm) with aged water to a depth of about 5 cm. I usually use water from an established fish tank. Plastic trays of different sizes are available in supermarket nearly your home or your kitchen. Pour the peat into the “hatching tray” and gently break up the lumps. When the peat has settled to the bottom, scoop away the floating debris. It’s important to keep the surface of the water clear or else it will be very difficult to spot and catch the killifish fry when they hatch. But be careful when removing the floating debris. Although eggs should sink, some may be attached to the floating peat. When “eyes” appear in the eggs, it would mean it’s “wetting time”. But even if you cannot spot the eyes, it’s okay to wet the peat if you think the eggs are fully developed. No harm will come to undeveloped eggs subjected to repeated wetting so long as you dry and bag the peat again. If the timing is right, you should see fry within a few hours. If not, wait at least 2 days.The killifish fry won’t be able to swim very well when they are newly hatched. For a few hours, they will be just lying on top of the peat, making wriggling movements.

Do not catch killifish fry immediately but wait a few hours for them to become “free-swimming” before transferring them into a “raising tray”.This is where the killifish will be raised until they are about 3 weeks old. Be sure to have some Java or Christmas moss in the “raising tray”. Moss encourages the growth of infusoria and also serves as a “security blanket” for the killifish fry. I usually have my “raising trays” ready a few days before I wet the killifish eggs. To promote infusoria, I put a drop or 2 of liquidfry into the water. It’s also useful to have some snails in the tray as their droppings are food for infusoria. Do not put too many fry into one tray or else the mortality rate will be high. I usually will not have more than 20 killifish fry in a 20 cm by 20 cm raising tray.Two days after wetting, dry the peat and bag it. Chances are very good that there will be more fry when you wet the peat again in another 2 weeks.Some eggs, by nature, will not hatch during the first wetting or even the 2nd and 3rd wetting. It’s known as diapause, mother nature’s back- up system to ensure that in the event of a false or freak shower, not all the fish will be wiped out when the pond dries up again. It’s always a good idea to mark down the species and the hatching date on the raising tray, more so if you are raising more than one species of killifish.