Archive for the ‘Killifish knowledge’ Category

Killifish in community with other

Killifish in community with other fish or shrimp

A question asked time and time again is whether killifish can be kept in community aquariums. The answer is yes, but you will have to be selective. Most species are unable to compete with other active aquarium fish (e.g. danios and barbs), while others can. Some may be aggressive towards other fish in general, while others may only be aggressive towards others of same or similar species. Some have no problem with tanks with a strong water current, while others will waste away under such stress. Some can be shy and retreating under some conditions (sparsely planted tanks), while being very active under other conditions. Some experimentation may be needed to find out exactly what a particular killifish needs to do well under your conditions. Some basic guidelines follow. For Aphyosemion-like fish, a community of small peaceful fishes (e.g. cherry barbs Capoeta titteya, white clouds Tanichthys albonubes, neon tetras Paracheirodon innesi, Nannostomus pencilfish etc. . . ) could work well. For Aplocheilus, Epiplatys and lamp-eyes a rougher crowd should pose little problem. Fish like Fundulopanchax gardneri have no problem sharing a tank with kribs Pelvicachromis pulcher. Display tanks composed of all males work well, but the general community rules should be adhered to: don’t put one fish with another that it can swallow. Keeping Fp. sjoestedti with neons or Aplocheilichthys normani
would not be smart. Keeping an aggressive little fish like Aphyosemion joergenscheeli with similar colored fish would also be silly. Nice displays can be made of excess male Nothos.  A killifish community can be built up of Epiplatys chaperi or dageti, Chromaphyosemion bitaeniatum and Aphyosemion striatum. Aphyosemion australe can be put in the place of striatum. The important thing is not to mix similar looking fish. Mixing Fp. gardneri with australe would not work as the females are very similar in appearance. Mixing gardneri and dageti works well. Some fish are also more assertive over territory than others. Male Fp. gardneri will dominate the smaller and weaker Aphyosemion australe in a mixed tank. Epiplatys are in general more assertive than Aphyosemion. It is the coloration of the females that is important when mixing species. Males will chase anything that they recognize as a female, and may even spawn with it. While Fp. spoorenbergi and sjoestedti look very different
in colour and size, the females are very similar and they will crossbreed. Suspect progeny should be discarded, or at least never sold or distributed in the hobby. For ideas on what species one can mix, one need only examine the data at www.killi-data.org to see which species or species groups live together in the wild. In one stream in Cameroon you may find Aphyosemion raddai, A. obscurum, Chromaphyosemion loennbergii and Epiplatys sp. and perhaps  Lacustricola camerunensis. You may also find Pelvicachromis species as well as small tetras and barbs. Diverse and interesting communities can be put together with the help of some research and good judgement. Lamp-eyes make good general community fish as do Aplocheilus. The more sedate Aphyosmeion and Rivulus do not. Nothobranchius and “Cynolebias” are normally unable to compete for food with general community fish and slowly die.

What is killifish by Tyrone Genade

The word killifish is a modification of the Dutch term “kil vissen” that literally means “stream fish”. The first killifish was the mumichog Fundulus heteroclitus, which was discovered in a stream near New Amsterdam (modern day New York). This word, killifish, is now widely applied to all egg-laying  members of the order Cyprinodontiformes. Also belonging to the order Cyprinodontiformes are the American live bears such as guppies, mollies, platies and swords—and the least killifish Heterandria formosa. The ricefish (Oryzias species) are today placed in the order Beloniformes but is afforded honorary killifish status for old times sake. Both orders are regarded to be closely related to the Atheriniformes (rainbow fish and blue-eyes). As evidence of this, is the potential for eggs of the blue-eyes Pseudomugil species (of the order Atheriniformes) to enter a delayed state of development akin to diapause. Eggs of Pseudomugil gertrudae and mellis are able to extend their incubation 100% (from two to four weeks) when incubated in damp peat instead of water. The eggs of Pseudo

mugil cyanodorsalis can remain undeveloped for extended periods of time in full strength sea water, only beginning to develop in the presence of fresh or brackish water. The eggs of killifish, while not normally tolerating sea water, react similarly to an increase in salinity. Previously all the killifish fell under the family Cyprinodontidae but have since been split up into several diverse families. The lamp-eyes now fall under the family Poeciliidae along with the guppies and mollies. The Aphyosemion, Epiplatys, Aplocheilus and Nothobranchius are now of the family Aplocheilinae and the Rivulus and the former “Cynolebias” species

now under Rivulinae. The various Fundulus types of North America fall into their own family Fundulinae. Then there are the families that include the pupfish and Aphanius etc. . . There are approximately 700 species of Cyprinodont. Where in the past the taxonomy represented the morphological and meristic similarities, today

it represents the hypothesized evolutionary lineages. This implies that all fish belonging to the same genus share a common biology that is more closely like each other than any other species group. While not to claim that the

science is unimportant, the real issue for us as fishkeepers is that if we know something about the care of one member of the genus we can reasonably assume the same characters are possessed by a species you know nothing about within that genus. When beginning to experiment with a new species these assumptions are invaluable in approaching the question of how to care for your new charge. Another conformation adopted by the author, is to where ever possible, use the currently accepted sub-generic name for a group of fish. While some ichthyologists reject the genus name Chromaphyosemion1 as a valid genus name for the fish that were the bivittatum-group of the genus Aphyosemion, this author does recognize the validity of this name. The reasoning is simple: the fish of the genus Chromaphyosemion resemble each other more closely in form and physiology, than they do other members of the super genus Aphyosemion. Likewise, the names Diapteron, Kathyetys and Mesoaphyosemion will be used to descriptively group those particular members of Aphyosemion.

In summation, to the hobbyist’s mind a killifish is a Cyprinodont that lays eggs. That lamp-eyes are more closely related to livebearers than Aphyosemion doesn’t make them any less a killifish.

Caring For Your Killifish

Introduction

Killifish is one of the most interesting groups of ornamental fish hobby. They are
The most closely related poecillid livebearers, and once known as “egg laying
toothcarps” to distinguish them from “livebearing toothcarps” as the guppy and
Xiphophorus.
Killifish is all over the world including North America, South America, Africa, Europe and
Asia. There are several types of killies live in the Great Lakes region of the United Nations
The countries are in local streams and rivers. However, in most killies
Common interests from Africa or South America.

Habits

Most killifish are solitary. They do not like school TETRAS prefers to spend time
Lurking in the plant. Some of the greatest killifish is very positive and should maintain its
While others are shy and retirement. Almost all killies is a good jumper, so kill Aquarium
Should maintain good coverage.

Keep

Killifish does not require the aquatic environment, the supply of water to keep
Clean. Many fans kill add half a teaspoon of salt per gallon of water because killies
Vulnerable to diseases like velvet. A couple of killies be maintained at 121 / 2 gallons
Aquarius, while large variety of take 10 or 20 Jialuntanke. Most killies not good
Community aquarium, better hold their own. Killies is the kind of predators,
How to live or frozen. Killies make bad food when fed, full-chip soon
Weaken and die.
When stored in a reservoir of community, killies lenses can not compete
Faster, more aggressive tank mate. Live baby brine shrimp is the best food
killifish , it is a living and Blackworms white worms, worms, frozen blood, frozen Brine Shrimp.
As the largest species of earthworms and baby guppies.

Breeding

Killifish traditionally divided into two classes based on their method of reproduction: mopspawning
And at the end of spawning.
• mop reproduction killifish deposits its eggs in cotton mop or plant leaves, where they may
Deleted aquarium and a small container of water in the incubator. The egg
Usually two weeks incubation and young people are also big enough to eat immediately
Baby brine shrimp or vinegar eels.
• the end of the spawning ground or peat moss killies the bottom of the tank.
The peat is removed, the water squeezed. Peat and stored in a plastic
Package 6 weeks to 9 months depending on the species. When peat is
immersion in water, infant killies were born!
This is a most ingenious of nature was the survival of these fish dry with Now in their natural habitat.
Import your Killifish

Incubation killifish eggs

The right dryness would be when the outer edges of the peat turns brown in colour. The peat should not stick to your hand if you run your fingers through it. I hope you have been paying attention to the peat. Give the plastic bag a good shake to break up any clumps in the peat and then roll it up like a roll. After a few days, there will be condensation on the insides of the bag. Keeping the peat close to the plastic is to keep the moisture close to the peat, thereby preventing it from becoming too dry. Use a scotch tape to hold the bag in its rolled up position.To bag the peat, roll up the newspaper to form a funnel and insert the opening into a thick plastic bag. Hit the newspaper gently and let the peat drop through the opening. Always check for killifish eggs that may be stuck to the newspaper after all the peat has been bagged. Do not use ziplock bags to store the eggs as moisture will escape through the thin plastic and the peat will become too dry. Put the bag holding the peat into a ziplock bag and label it accordingly. Mark down the killifish species, the date the peat was collected and the expected wetting date. Do not use markers to write on the plastic as there is a risk that the alcohol from the marker’s ink will seep through the plastic and poison the eggs. Store the bag in a styrofoam box where it is dark and cool. Check the peat once every 2 weeks by opening up the plastic bag. If there is a lot of condensation, it would mean the peat is too wet. In such a case, dry the peat again by leaving it between several sheets of newspapers. If the peat looks too dry, drop a small piece of wet paper into the bag before rolling it up again. The moisture from the wet paper will spread through the peat and keep it moist. Opening the plastic bag and fluffing the peat once in a while is good for the eggs as fresh air is allowed in. Killifish eggs cannot develop if they are deprived of oxygen. Egg development time depends on the temperature the killifish eggs are stored and the dryness of the peat. At 29 degrees Centigrade, Nothobranchius eggs should be fully developed in 6 to 8 weeks. As with plastic bags, always remember to label your containers with the name of the species, the date the peat was collected and the expected date of hatching.

The right dryness would be when the outer edges of the peat turns brown in colour. The peat should not stick to your hand if you run your fingers through it.I hope you have been paying attention to the peat. Give the plastic bag a good shake to break up any clumps in the peat and then roll it up like a roll. After a few days, there will be condensation on the insides of the bag. Keeping the peat close to the plastic is to keep the moisture close to the peat, thereby preventing it from becoming too dry. Use a scotch tape to hold the bag in its rolled up position.To bag the peat, roll up the newspaper to form a funnel and insert the opening into a thick plastic bag. Hit the newspaper gently and let the peat drop through the opening. Always check for killifish eggs that may be stuck to the newspaper after all the peat has been bagged. Do not use ziplock bags to store the eggs as moisture will escape through the thin plastic and the peat will become too dry. Put the bag holding the peat into a ziplock bag and label it accordingly. Mark down the killifish species, the date the peat was collected and the expected wetting date. Do not use markers to write on the plastic as there is a risk that the alcohol from the marker’s ink will seep through the plastic and poison the eggs. Store the bag in a styrofoam box where it is dark and cool. Check the peat once every 2 weeks by opening up the plastic bag. If there is a lot of condensation, it would mean the peat is too wet. In such a case, dry the peat again by leaving it between several sheets of newspapers. If the peat looks too dry, drop a small piece of wet paper into the bag before rolling it up again. The moisture from the wet paper will spread through the peat and keep it moist. Opening the plastic bag and fluffing the peat once in a while is good for the eggs as fresh air is allowed in. Killifish eggs cannot develop if they are deprived of oxygen. Egg development time depends on the temperature the killifish eggs are stored and the dryness of the peat. At 29 degrees Centigrade, Nothobranchius eggs should be fully developed in 6 to 8 weeks. As with plastic bags, always remember to label your containers with the name of the species, the date the peat was collected and the expected date of hatching.

Killifish eggs collection

When you think there are enough eggs in the breeding bowl, take it out from the breeding tank. Quite often, killifish will be inside the bowl. Remove them and take away the rock. You can check for eggs by stirring the peat with your finger. Killifish eggs should be clearly visible if they are there. Pour the peat moss through a coffee filter. Let the water dripping out from the coffee filter collect in the breeding bowl. Swirl the peat around with this water and pour the peat through the filter until there’s no peat left. Do not leave any peat in the bowl or you may lose some eggs. Every egg is precious.The best time to look for eggs in the peat would be at this moment when the peat is still wet. Spread the peat out on the newspapers and the eggs will stand out clearly if they are there. Wet eggs glisten so they are easily seen. Even if it’s just for an hour or 2, it becomes much more difficult to spot the eggs if you look for them later. Notho eggs are fairly large and can be easily seen with the naked eye.Eggs vary in colour and some may look opaque and unfertilised but as far as I know, eggs are good as long as they are not fungused. When you think there are enough eggs in the breeding bowl, take it out from the breeding tank. Quite often, fish will be inside the bowl. Remove them and take away the rock. You can check for eggs by stirring the peat with your finger. Eggs should be clearly visible if they are there. Let all the water drip out and then give the filter a good squeeze. Eggs are tough and can take some rough handling but don’t squeeze too hard. Put the peat on several sheets of newspapers. Check the coffee filter for eggs. Quite often, eggs will be attached to the sides of the filter. Keep the peat covered between several sheets of newspapers and leave to dry for 24 hours. Do not leave the newspapers under the sun as the peat may dry too quickly. If the amount of peat is small,24 hours may be too long a period.The right dryness is important. The peat should not be soggy wet, neither should it be bone dry. If the peat is too damp, the eggs may become fungused. If too dry, the eggs may die and disappear into nothingness.